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Ghana

Border Crossing - see ' Burkina Faso into Ghana'

Bush Camp. GPS N10 27.193’ W002 40.265’.
South of Jiwara . See the journal, in Ghana there will be someone who owns the land and from whom permission should be sought! The road from Hamale to Jirapa was dirt road, often badly corrugated; after Jiwara and on to Wa it was tarred. Wa is the regional capital and a good place to restock and refuel.

Mole National Park. Mole Motel. GPS N09 15.645’ W001 51.337. Well signposted in the centre of Sawla, but the dirt track thereafter is in bad condition, so allow ample time for this section. Good signing once you are under 10 kms from the park. They will allow camping, but the facilities are not great and electricity hook up may be a problem .. so too could be the primate population, in particular the baboons! The rooms are good for the price and electricity hook up no problem. Use your vehicle to go on the game drives, in which case and providing the ranger is happy, they can start as early as you want and be for as long as you want.

Tamale. Mariam Hotel. GPS N09 25.561’ W000 50.904’. Relax Lodge. GPS N09 24’ W000 49.790’. We spent one night in each. Neither is signposted until you are within 500m or so, so use the Bradt guide if necessary. We used the functional Miriam for its wifi: free and in the hotel room. There is no possibility of camping in the secure car park. The Relax Lodge was overpriced, but did allow electricity hook up, without a fee. Again camping in the secure car park, a building site, was not a possibility. The route to Tamale from Mole is a badly corrugated dirt road until it joins the main Kumasi/Tamale road at Fulfusu, thereafter it is tarred.

Bush Camp. GPS N07 26.232 W001 28.348. Our route to Nkoranza took us along the badly maintained main road to the ferry at Malanga, get there at least 45 minutes before it is due to sail to ensure you get on. Once across, the road is tarred to Ejura where we turned off right at the southern end of town onto a brand new, traffic free tarred road and signed for Nkoranza. We sought permission to park/camp once we had found a suitable site to the rear of a village about 30 kms along the road and then proceeded to provide the evening’s entertainment! We felt secure knowing that we had engaged with the villagers and that they were very welcoming and all knew our location.

Nkoranza. Operation Hand in Hand Guest House. GPS N07 34.290’ W001 42.005’. Not signposted, go through the centre of the town until you come to a large roundabout with an advertisement and direction arrow for the Monkey Sanctuary, take the first right and carry on to the (St Theresa) hospital gates, go through the gates and after about 300m and with 2 trees with benches under them on your right, turn right; the track dissects the trees. Follow the track to a T junction, turn left and Hand in Hand is 200m on the right. Camping may be permitted, but check first; in any case the rooms are good value and electricity hook up is available if needed. We used the place as a base for touring in the area so the batteries were recharged that way. Good restaurant with cold beer.

Kumasi. Four Villages Inn. GPS N06 38.702’ W001 37.163’. Spoil yourself! Driving in Kumasi can be testing, use the Bradt guidebook map and once at the Ahodwo Circle with its statue of a horse, take the Old Bekwai Rd and carry on until you see the Inn, set back and on the right with the name emblazoned over the veranda. Recommended by friends in Ghana and with a glowing Bradt write up, the Inn lived up to all the hype! Welcoming and helpful host (Chris), lovely rooms, great breakfast. No camping, but electricity hook up is possible, internet access but it is paid for, and then there is Comfort – a superb local guide.

Lake Bosumtwi. Lake Paradise Resort. GPS N06 31.927’ W001 25.848’. Signed before you get to the village of Abonu and again at the track that leads off right from the tarred road just before you enter the village. Turn right at the sign and the Resort is on your left after about 800m down this rough track. Camping is not possible and the Resort has reached the stage where it needs capital investment to refurbish the careworn infrastructure. As such the rooms are overpriced, despite the superb location.

Axim. LouMoon Lodge. GPS N04 49.745’ W002 12.094’. Signed from the Axim turn off the main Elubo road and again at the left turn down a track on the town outskirts proper. Just follow the track to its end, about 7kms or so, and the entrance is in front of you. Camping is possible, but there is a small fee, electricity hook up is feasible, but not tested and the facilities – toilet and shower – good. . In our opinion this Lodge is absolutely the best there is in Ghana, the veritable bees knees and worth every penny .. and if you stay in one of the chalets on the island, it’s quite a few pennies! But, what the heck! Spoil yourself, live a little! Paul Ramlot is extremely helpful and understanding, the staff superbly attentive, the French inspired food, especially the sorbets, outstanding and the facilities on the beach around the idyllic, secluded and safe to swim bay, great.

Beyin. The Beyin Beach Resort. GPS N04 59.312’ W002 35.744’. If approaching along the coastal dirt road from Elkwe, the Resort is on the left at the western end of the village of Beyin and accessed through the same entrance as the Nzulezo stilt village visitors centre. Camping is possible at no extra charge, providing you use the restaurant and the food is good value and well prepared and the beer cold. Electricity hook up is feasible but not tested and the facilities, shower and toilet are very good. The English owners, Patrick and Nina, are very overlander friendly and the Resort very good value for money.

Dixcove. Safari Beach Lodge. GPS N04 45.504’ W002 00.827’. We found the Bradt guidebook map of Dixcove imperfect, when in Dixcove ask directions and you will then be put on the dirt track leading to the Lodge. The Lodge is about 5 minutes from Dixcove and signed at its left hand turn off the dirt track. Camping is possible in the car park providing you use the restaurant, with shower and toilets nearby, but no electricity hook up is feasible.

Ampenyi. Ko-Sa Cultural Centre. GPS N05 03.689’ W001 26.425’. If travelling east on the main Cape Coast road, the Centre is signposted (but a smallish sign) at the right hand turn in Ajensudo, follow the tar road to the village and the Centre is signposted there. The new Dutch owners have overlanded in East Africa, camping is possible and so too is electricity hookup. We felt that Patrick and Nicole were making a great start, with a good ambience to the place and value for money food.

Kakum National Park. Rainforest Lodge. GPS N05 20.827’ W000 10.437’. As this Lodge is just 100m in front of the Park visitors centre/ HQ/ Canopy Walk, just follow the signs for the Park on the Jukwa road. No camping is allowed, the Lodge is basic, but the room has a fan and comes with en suite shower and toilet; self catering is the best way to ensure a meal in the evening .. assuming you will be there for the early ( 05.30!) start the next morning. Great location and great value!!

Accra. As we stayed with family friends in Accra, there is no information regarding accommodation, etc. However the following may be of use regarding VISAS: The Nigerian High Commission has a tendency to move annually! Currently it is in the northern end of Onyasia Crescent in a district called Roman Ridge. The paperwork for the Nigerian visa includes – in addition to the standard photos and passport copies – photocopies of both the front page of the carnet and the page with the Ghana entry stamp on it; a photocopy of the page in the passport with the Ghana visa on it; photocopies of most, if not all, the vaccination documents; a photocopy of the UK vehicle registration document and a copy of your driving license! The visa costs $100 and takes not less than 48hrs. The Benin Embassy is now located, when approaching from Switchback Lane, at the far end of Switchback Close in the north of the Cantonments district. The visa application is simple and the visa ready the same day, if you go early, and the cost varies according to the number of days the visa is for; the visa is paid for in CFA’s. There is also a post office close by, at the junction of Jawarial Nehru and 2nd Circular roads. Should you be crossing into Togo by any route other than the Denu/Lome crossing, where visas are available, you should get a visa from the Togo Embassy. The Embassy is located beside the roundabout at the top end of Cantonments Road. As with the Benin Embassy, the Togo visa application is simple; the visa ready the same day and paid for in CFA’s. The following may be useful regarding a TOYOTA SERVICE: We used the Toyota Ghana Accra branch for a thorough and cheap (by UK prices) service of the vehicle, they are highly recommended by ex-pats and their details are: Location: junction Graphic Road and Adjuma Link in the South Industrial Area district. Tel: 221316/228813/223122 and their service centre 2283662 or 241239.

And finally, the following may be of use regarding WIFI: free wifi is available in the excellent cafeteria above the Koala supermarket. The supermarket is 20m south of the roundabout where Cantonments Road and the Ring Road intersect; run by a Lebanese family, it has a good supply of European foodstuffs ,a large car park and the internet connection is far more reliable than that of some expensive hotels.

Biakpa. Mountain Paradise Lodge. GPS N06 51.045’ E000 25.209’. Well signposted from the nearby village of Vane, the Lodge is a long 1km north of the village of Biakpa. The dirt tracks leading to the Lodge are hilly and great fun, the scenery on the way from Anfoeta is stunning. We stayed in a (cheap) twin room, where, because of the altitude, it was cool so the fan was not needed and there were no mosquitoes. Food is available and camping is possible, but not sure about what facilities are available. The views and the activities in the area make it worth the trip.


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