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Zambia

Livingstone Bushfront Campsite. GPS S17 52.832’ E025 50.603’.Signed at the left turn just before the Spar supermarket/shopping centre as you enter Livingstone from Vic Falls. Excellent site with power hook up, h&c water, showers only, restaurant and wood for the braai. Wifi/internet at the nearby Waterfront Lodge. Downside: occasional (small) overland groups, but this is worse at the Waterfront campsite!


Route: Livingstone to Sitoti (W bank of the Zambezi to ferry crossing).
Good tar to the right turn in Katima Mulilo, just after the bridge over the Zambezi, thereafter very scenic and reasonable sandy piste but with patches of ruts, corrugation and wash out; would be difficult in the rainy season. 25 kms before Ngoyne Falls there is an official Shangombo District vehicle check point and ‘road tax’ point (GPS S16 43.400 E023 39.730). The ferry is about 2kms to the N of Sitoti, where the road ends.

Kabula Lodge. GPS S16 39.632’ E023 39.730’.
Signed at the right turn off the piste, as are all the lodges on this route (the Mission at Ludu,25 kms to the south and in a scenic position overlooking rapids, may allow camping and be a cheaper option). Reasonable facilities: h&c water, bar and restaurant.

Ngoyne Falls NP Campsite. GPS S16 39.632’ E023 34.396’.
About 2-3 hours from Kabula and locals call it the Sioma Fall after the nearby village, entrance on right on roadside. Great site close to river, attendant, h&c water, bucket shower, long drop loo, firewood and with own private beach! Without levellers might be difficult to achieve the horizontal! Ask to be ferried out to the far bank where the falls are more spectacular (see journal). About 2 hrs away from the ferry at Sitoti.

Route: Sitoti Ferry to Watopa Ferry.
From the east bank of the Zambezi across the flood plain to Senanga (fuel) is a passable rutted mud causeway, again passage in the rainy season would be difficult. Thereafter good to very good tar to Mongu (fuel and markets). Mongu to Kaoma road is again good tar, the left turn for Lukulu is in a low river valley, about 5kms before Kaoma and signed on the left by the turn, a bank sign giving the distance to its branch in Lukulu (190km). Mainly good gravel piste, but with areas of bad corrugation, all the way to Lukulu. Again, generally good gravel piste from Lukulu to the ferry at Watopa.

Bush Camp. GPS S14 46.099’ E024 32.848’.
Left turn on bend onto piste from Sikelenge, pass along piste between fields wood approaching on right, right turn onto track through fields into the wood.

Route: Watopa Ferry to Nchila Game Reserve.
Good gravel to Manyinga, fuel available in Kabompo. Left turn for the piste to Mwinilunga is at GPS S13 26.082’ E024 19.978’ just before village of Manyinga and clearly indicated by a normal road sign, a triangle showing a left turn ahead. Piste to Manyinga spectacular in parts, particularly the Kanyilombi section, and mainly reasonable graded gravel. T junction at the end of the piste on the outskirts of Mwinilunga, turn left onto a tar road. The tar lasts until the W outskirts of the town; thereafter the piste is badly maintained and rutted. Nchila signed on the right, some kms after the Zambezi Source NP.


Kabompo Catholic Mission. No GPS.
Seek directions in Kabompo, the mission is in the town area on your right and close to two radio masts; take the first right turn after a the first line of stores you come to on entering the town on the main road and head towards the masts. Accommodation normally available, camping may be (see journal).


Nchila Game Reserve Campsite.
Seek directions at the Reserve Office (GPS S11 14.989’ E024 18.852’). Lovely isolated and very small campsite, with attendant, h&c water, shower, kitchen area and wood for the braai. Pre-booking a must to guarantee one of the 2 (3 at a push) pitches.

Solwezi. Florian lodge. GPS S12 11.317’ E026 25.705’.
Pass through Solwezi on the main road, over the river and into the N outskirts, Florian lodge on the right, beside the main road. Camping allowed in their secure car park. Solwezi has fuel, food and ATMs.

Bush Camp. North Gate Kafue NP. GPS S14 05.644’ E026 07.062’.
The park staff manning the gate seemed happy that we chose our own site, in the bush near the gate. This site was down a track off to the right from the piste leading to the park barrier and within 300m of the barrier.

Kafue NP. Lufupa River Camp. GPS S14 36.996’ E026 11.478’.
Signed at the turning from the central N/S park track. A great campsite, with attendants, good facilities including electricity hook up, plenty of wildlife, wifi, a bar and a good restaurant, excellent river trips and day/night game drives. Well worth the fee.

Lusaka. Eureka Camping Park. GPS S15 30.194’ E028 15.919‘.
Negotiate Lusaka using Bradt and T4A. Signed on the left as you leave Lusaka on the road to Chirundu, just before the Baobab College buildings on the right. Reasonable facilities, electricity hook up limited, railway marshalling yard style lighting at night and generally a bit impersonal; also used by overlanding groups.

Lusaka. Pioneer Camp. GPS S15 23.739’ E028 27.060’.
Beyond the airport roundabout on the road to Chipata out of Lusaka (beware police speed traps on the dual carriageway out to the roundabout). Signed on the right just beyond the police check point and again at the right turn off the rough track. There are no pitches as such, the facilities are adequate with h&c water and shower, but electricity hook up and braai cooking are difficult. Good bar, restaurant and pool and wifi available in the bar area. Our preference in Lusaka, despite the speed traps en route and the distance from the city centre.

Z
ambezi Wildlife Sanctuary. Kayila Lodge. GPS S15 47.668’ E029 10.552’. About two hours from the left turn in Chirundu (unsigned) including a ferry crossing and initially a maintained gravel track. Signed on the right about 2kms after entering the wildlife sanctuary (no fee). Riverside campsite well away from the main lodge area, reasonable facilities and tented accommodation available if wanted.

Chiawa Community Campsite. GPS S15 43.215’ E029 19.902’.
Signed at the turning off the main badly maintained piste leading to the Lower Zambezi NP. Although falling into the ‘seen better times’ category, the campsite has pitches right on the riverbank, an attendant, h&c water, a working shower and is the closest campsite to the NP.

Petauke. Zulu Kraal Campsite. GPS S14 17.706’ E031 19.902’.
Signed at the outskirts to the town and on the main Lusaka-Chipata road (very good tar), about 5 hours from Lusaka. A convenient but very basic campsite with water, a sink and loo.

Chitipa. Mama Rula’s. GPS S13 34.964’ E032 36.616’.
Signed at the left turn off the main road as you enter Chitipa, but just beyond that turning. Signed again on the South Luangwa NP road just after a cotton ginning building. Good facilities including internet, bar and restaurant; electricity hook up possible. Used by overlanding groups but they have a separate area.

Route: Mfuwe Bridge Gate Luangwa NP to Muchinga Escarpment.
Check with the NP staff that the rivers in the N of the NP are passable, normally only one (??Chikaya or the Mupamadzi??) is a problem until the annual, dry season pole and sandbag causeway has been constructed. A great, if sadly game free, route through the park becomes even more sensational as you climb the escarpment, a great view point looking back over the park, on the right of the road and amongst boulders is at GPS S12 19.602’

E031 32.423’
. On exiting the park and before the climb up the escarpment, on the far side of the only bridge (over the Mutinondo?) is a brand new community campsite. Once up the escarpment there is a check point (no fee, just a log book to complete) and there after a reasonable to good piste to the main Lusaka-Tanzania road, a two to three hour drive away.

Bush Camp.GPS S12 13.614’ E031 27.131’.
Along the piste to the main road there few villages and are plenty of tracks off into the woodland. This site was accessed by one leading off to the right between a field and the woodland.

Kapishya Hot Springs. GPS S11 13.614’ E031 36.019’.
We approached Kapishya Hot Springs from the Mpika-Kasama road (thus able to continue E to the T2 Tanzanian border road via Shiwa Ng’andu) the sandy piste is reasonable and the Kapishya turn off signed. Fantastic location on the riverbank, good facilities but no electricity hook up, the main lodge building have a great garden to relax in and good restaurant.

Route: Isoka to Chisenga in Malawi
. If you are taking this route, the last chance to get customs and immigration stamps is in Isoka. Turn off the main road to Isoka, in Isoka at a T junction turn left and follow the unpaved road through the ‘town’ and up a hill, customs and immigration double up (!) and the office plus very helpful official is in the administrative buildings on the right. Having completed customs and immigration in Isoka (food and fuel), return to the main Lusaka to Tanzania road, turn left and then first right onto a piste signposted Muyombe. This is the road to Chisenga. Eventually (three hours+) and after climbing up the escarpment (enjoy the fantastic scenery!) you will come to a T junction and the M14, turn left onto the minor piste and continue into Malawi and about 10 kms or so beyond the ‘border’ you will arrive at Chisenga.

Bush Camp. GPS S10 17.097’ E032 55.637’.
Off the Chisenga piste to the left is a disused gravel working, continue through into the woodland at the rear. (Forget any idea about camping by the Luangwa River; too many people and no easy access)

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